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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a leaking seal, so going to pull the forks and replace the oil seals and dust boots on both forks, what oil do you recommend I put in the K6 1K?
 

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I used Motul 5w light synthetic. I would go with synthetic as it last longer.

Make sure you didn't get a rock ding in your fork lower tube. Happened to me twice and had to replace the whole fork leg.
 

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Damn I just had mine done 2 weeks ago at traxxion dynamics and he told me what oil he put in it, but I forgot lol

I just changed forks seals out in a K6 1000 a few weeks ago...seems like thay all start to leak very early
 

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stock or i would contact traxxion dynamics and i would probably get parts through them as well. Not sure of your budget but i would look at their ak 20 kits as well. Traxxion is the shit with rebuilding forks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah Corey, the AK 20 kit would be nice, but not looking to throw another $1K + in to the machine, when i may just have to get that white/silver K8 ha
 

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Captain Squid said:
Damn I just had mine done 2 weeks ago at traxxion dynamics and he told me what oil he put in it, but I forgot lol

I just changed forks seals out in a K6 1000 a few weeks ago...seems like thay all start to leak very early
Traxxions standard fork fluid is the Maxima Racing Synthetic in 7.5 weight. Might be a little heavy with stock valving unless you are already running in the outer range of your adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks, i may just put a valve kit in, but will probably stick with stock oil...not looking to go to the track, so will stick close to stock...maybe if i pick up a K8 will change to all the guts
 

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gsxr_cbr said:
Traxxions standard fork fluid is the Maxima Racing Synthetic in 7.5 weight. Might be a little heavy with stock valving unless you are already running in the outer range of your adjustments.
I've got the axxion valving/springs in it as well
 

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elkbow said:
thanks, i may just put a valve kit in, but will probably stick with stock oil...not looking to go to the track, so will stick close to stock...maybe if i pick up a K8 will change to all the guts
Since you are looking to keep this a street bike, I would change out the fork seals, put new springs in it(for your weight), use stock valves, stock fluid and when it comes time to change the fluid again then change out the valves and go to a different fluid.

You want the bike set up for your weight first. If you just put in new valves, fluid and seals you are going to run into the same seal problem later on down the road, i.e. bottoming out from wheelies, brakes or pot holes.

With building on a budget you can do it all in steps and still get the same end result. If you can afford to put Showa superbike forks on... I wouldnt recommend it for the street... But do it as they are the the best on the market. Or you could start with one piece at a time and work your way forward.

Hopefully this gives you a better outlook on where you need to start:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah, from what i was thinking, the stock fork springs should be pretty good for my weight, 180, so just getting the seals and oil changed should be fine for most stuff, I haven't really had a problem with the stock setup, i ride hard and it works fine...the valving because i have a racetech valve kit sitting here for some time, just didn't really see the need to put it in...
 

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elkbow said:
yeah, from what i was thinking, the stock fork springs should be pretty good for my weight, 180, so just getting the seals and oil changed should be fine for most stuff, I haven't really had a problem with the stock setup, i ride hard and it works fine...the valving because i have a racetech valve kit sitting here for some time, just didn't really see the need to put it in...
You would be amazed at the weight the stock springs are for. They are more likely to fit a guy my size, 150, than one your size... not tryin to say your fat or anything.. just sayin:biggrin.

I am running 9.0 springs in my forks on my 05 1k and the stockers were 8.5's! But then again it is a race bike as well that has the Ohlins 25 mil kit in there and an Ohlins triple shock on the back. I do all of my suspension work myself as well.. so that did help with the cost.


Just something to consider since you are going to have them apart!:biggrin
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i was trying to figure out the spring rates and what I needed, i thought they were on the stiff side and not soft side according to specs, they are i believe .95 stock and it is recommended I thought after i checked that i go with around a .91...
 

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elkbow said:
i was trying to figure out the spring rates and what I needed, i thought they were on the stiff side and not soft side according to specs, they are i believe .95 stock and it is recommended I thought after i checked that i go with around a .91...
Earlier you stated that you weighed in the 180 range. That weight would put you at the .925 to .95 area.

I do know that all the bikes I have had in the past have been a tad on the light side for even my skin butt.

I have yet to see a spring rate of .91. Most of them come in .05 incriments and some in .025 incriments.

Have you set the sag on this bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i used an online calculator for spring rate, which does both weight of the bike and rider to calculate the 'ideal' fork spring weight, not that you can get that weight, as it does come in the .05 incriments, what i was getting at, i weigh 180, the 'ideal' setup says a .91x spring, and stock i believe is .95....so do you go down to .90 or stay at the stock .95....i would think i'm okay...

the sag, etc. i have set with a friend doing measurements for me, it is all setup ok, like i said, it does well on the road with hard riding, i'm rebuilding the forks as one of the seals is leaking, so was looking at anything else i would do while i'm at it....not sure if the racetech gold valve kit will help any or if i should even put it in....

i don't want to do too much, i may pick up an 08, got the money, just haven't decided...
 

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elkbow said:
i used an online calculator for spring rate, which does both weight of the bike and rider to calculate the 'ideal' fork spring weight, not that you can get that weight, as it does come in the .05 incriments, what i was getting at, i weigh 180, the 'ideal' setup says a .91x spring, and stock i believe is .95....so do you go down to .90 or stay at the stock .95....i would think i'm okay...

the sag, etc. i have set with a friend doing measurements for me, it is all setup ok, like i said, it does well on the road with hard riding, i'm rebuilding the forks as one of the seals is leaking, so was looking at anything else i would do while i'm at it....not sure if the racetech gold valve kit will help any or if i should even put it in....

i don't want to do too much, i may pick up an 08, got the money, just haven't decided...
Gottcha about the spring rate! I would say stay at the .95 rate, put in your valves(for smoother operation) and do a stock oil along with your fork seals. At the .95 rate you will be able to use the extra for a passenger, if you happen to ride with one often and you could adjust it to the soft side if you dont ride with a passenger often to get rid of some of the stiffness. I would check the springs, while you have them apart, to verify that the springs are actually .95's... just to be safe.

When you set the sag.. what numbers did you come up with?

If you pick up an 08.. dont get the white one as it is ugly in person... j/k. That color looks awsome in person. I seen one in Chicago about 2 weeks ago and have to say.. that would be the color I would get!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thats kinda what i was thinking, I'll have to go check my cheat sheet, but I believe I had sag set on the forks at around 32 or 33mm

I like that 08 white/silver, looks good...

 
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