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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools Needed:
Allen key
Some sort of deep tray measuring approx. 20"x4"
Fork oil in the weight of your choice
Lots of rags

Directions:
1. Unscrew the small bolt with the allen key
2. Pump out the old fluid by compressing and extending the damper fully
3. Fill the tray with plenty of fork oil (2 quarts is usually enough)
4. Fully submerge the damper in the fork oil
5. Extend and compress the damper fully several times, until you do not see any more air bubbles coming out
6. Fully extend the damper one last time, and with the damper still submerged, put the small bolt back in the damper
7. Remove damper from fork oil, and extend and compress it fully several times
8. If the damper motion is smooth and consistent with no dead spots, you are good to go. Clean off the damper and bolt it back on.
9. If the damper has dead spots (meaning it suddenly compresses or extends quickly) or is inconsistent in its movement, that means you have air in the system, and it needs to be submerged again and refilled.

I am currently using 20w fork oil in my k6, and i love it. slow-speed steering isn't bad at all, and even at a track as bumpy as pocono east i got no headshake. i used 20w on my k3 as well.

Hope this helps!
 

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I did mine also awhile back(last year), just gotta mention 00-03(dont know about other years) the screw you remove with the torx...man that screw is soft like butter be careful!!! no joke

again use straight weight and you might want to start with 10 weight or lower or higher up to you, I say go up the scale (lightweight to heavy weight)..

I end up using 15wt if i recall but again thats suits me fine, other might prefer it more or less stiffer/feedback...

Also my install was on the side of the steering damper, ea. end has an end cap with a notch ...

Once you remove the oil and see it, its almost like saliva If I recall hearing stock wt is 2.5wt but dont hold me too that.....

Also important on torque this down properly, Check your manual or ask around....
By the way did anyone mentioned or heard suzuki made an error on the manual about torque spec on the steering dampers? I dont recall the yrs or model mentioned.. unless that was BS!!!'
 

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On mine ('06 1k) I was able to put a clear hose over the end where the fill is. I rigged up a small funnel and just worked the damper while adding fluid to the funnel. Worked out pretty good, bled out nice. A great low cost alternative to a 300$ ohlins...Not to say I wouldn't LIKE to have an ohlins...:bowOHLINS
 

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Kelevra said:
Good post Ant!
I've yet to have a problem with my K-7-50 with slappers..
that was my point. suzuki redid the damper and made it better. Mike i wasn't refering to his bike being slower, which it is, but was refering to his damper. But ya his is all stock. he bought it the same time as mine and we did a stock vs stock run. i won, but i have far superior riding skills:bow
 

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GM GIXXER said:
On mine ('06 1k) I was able to put a clear hose over the end where the fill is. I rigged up a small funnel and just worked the damper while adding fluid to the funnel. Worked out pretty good, bled out nice. A great low cost alternative to a 300$ ohlins...Not to say I wouldn't LIKE to have an ohlins...:bowOHLINS
I did it the same way. (But with 5wt fork oil)

(This is my old TLS one - 2.5WT frok oil in that one)
 

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I pulled my damper off the bike and bought some 15w fork oil today. I'll be filling it tomorrow.

I only had a couple of head shake issues last year and only one was bad enough that my azz inhaled my seat. This is a good cheap mod that should help with a problem that only happens every once in a while.
 
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