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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a starting point, I will add to it and add pics soon. This will get you through the basics and is the quickest easiest method by far from my personal experience. There are other ways but this works for me.

Must have items:

good drill

1/16" bits. If this is your first time buy 10 or so. Get good quality, getting a cheap broken bit out of a hole sucks.

SAFETY GLASSES!!!!!! I have a pic somewhere of me with a bit stuck in my forehead. When they break they are little missiles.

A tap or punch and hammer

WD40 or cutting oil

A Sharpie

Safety Wire Pliers

Good quality Safety Wire

1. Make a plan. Know what you have to drill and look at your bike. I drill everything on the bike that is possible. The reason is because then I know what side of the bolt I need to drill.

2. Know your purpose. You arent just drilling holes and pulling wire in them. You need to drill them so that when they are anchored either to the bolt next to them or a hard part the wire is pulling the bolt tight not loose.

Example: pinch bolts on forks - the bolt on the right you drill on the bottom, the bolt on the left you drill at the top. That way the wire is pulling both bolts tighter instead of wanting to loosen them. You could also drill them both center but it doesnt leave you much wire to work with and gets to be a pain to cut and re-wire.

3. Drilling: I like to leave them on the bike so I know where to drill to make the wire pull the right direction. If your going to pull the bolts and drill in a vice mark them all with the Sharpie while on the bike (and torqued) where you need to drill. Otherwise it doesnt work out too well (I learned this the hard way and drilled a bike twice).

You can drill each bolt several ways based on prefrence or need. Some guys drill right through the center (dont try this on a hardened bolt), some drill on an angle from flat side to the next flat side. Some will drill straight into the flatside of the bolt, then drill into the next flatside until it intersects the first hole. This is how I do hardened bolts but it takes some patience to get the wire through these.

Take your punch and hammer and make a good dent on the bolt for the bit to rest in. This makes drilling so much easier and it's worth a few bucks to buy a punch. After you have punched it Drill at slow speed and use plenty of WD40 for lube and to keep the bit cool. Not using WD will result in very slow drilling, broken bits and a major headache.

Wiring from bolt to bolt is easy, you can go as far as you need as long as the wire is tight. If your wiring a single bolt you need to find a hard part to safely drill to wire it to.

Cut you wire plenty long and pull it through the hole. Onceyou hae both ends even pull it over to what your wiring to (next bolt - hard part) and hook your pliers up. Give yourself a little extra to make up for the twists. How much depends on the length of wire between bolts. Trial and error will teach you this. Use you pliers and twist it up. 12-15 twists per inch is what I try to do. If you go to many twists the wire will break. Now pull one end through the next hole. If your wiring 3 or more just repeat the process keeping it all 1 continuos piece of wire. Examples would be front axle bolt wired to both pinch bolts. At you last bolt dont cut it short before you twist it. Twist it up then cut it so you have about 1/2 inch tag end and fold it over so it wont catch on anything. BE SURE to pick up all your cut wire. This stuff will poke a hole in tire so fast it's scarey.

Oil filter: Put a hose clamp around the filter and tighten it. Then wire into the clamps holes in it's banding and find something to wire that end to. Remember to pull it so it's tightening the filter ESPECIALLY ON THE FILTER!!!!

This will give you an idea of ways to do multiples and what I mean by wiring to pull the bolt tight.

 

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And, Here, We, Go...
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If you're doing a complete wiring like the OP, talk to the Techs at your local track to find out if anything other then what's posted in the rulebook is necessary, every track has those little rules.
Excellent post BTW!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^ +1

Some org's require more or less than others. For example MOM requires the following:

Both pinch bolts
Both ends of both axles unless the end is captured...then only the uncaptured side.
Brake pad pins
Caliper mounting bolts
Oil filter
Oil drain
Oil filler
Radiator cap
Water pump drain
Master link clip
ANY bolt that has fluid behind it. (except brake banjos)

I have seen guys wire rearsets and brake/shift levers. Clutch levers etc... I've lost all of those at one time or another and may do that as well.
 

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how would u wire the master link clip? and y wouldn't u jsut get it riveted instead?
 

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Avplayer said:
how would u wire the master link clip? and y wouldn't u jsut get it riveted instead?
you would have the link riveted as usual, but you would run a length of wire through the rivet and around the top of the chain, that way it doesn't contact the sporckets and prevents the rivets from backing out if they are not riveted properly.
 

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anthony said:
you would have the link riveted as usual, but you would run a length of wire through the rivet and around the top of the chain, that way it doesn't contact the sporckets and prevents the rivets from backing out if they are not riveted properly.
Anyone got any pics of this???
 

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it is only used on master links with rivets that aren't solid...

just looked on google images, can't find any pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some guys will actually throw away the master link clip and figure 8 safety wire in the grooves on the pins where the clip would sit. I've seen it, I dont personally like it at all. I prefer to use the master link clip and a good dab of black rtv silicon or weather stripping adhesive. I ran all season with RTV and never had it come off.

Rivets are better but thats the options.
 

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I have all the plastics off my bike and I'm getting it ready for my track day in May. I have the pre-drilled drain plug but was wondering what to wire it to? If i wire it to a bolt on the side of the engine the wire will either rub on the exhaust or the pan.

This is on a K2 so it may be different than the newer bikes.
 

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Well heres my first attempt at safety wiring my bike.

I torqued the bolts to spec, marked them, removed them and then drilled them in a vice. reinstalled with a little blue thread lock and torqued to spec.
I wired them and took some pics to see if they are ok or if i need to change something.

Right caliper


Left caliper


Oil fill plug


Oil filter


Oil drain plug.
This was tricky, there wasn't a place to attach the wire close by so i ended up removing a oil pan bolt at the rear and using that. the safety wire is long and rubs on the pan so i don't know if it will rub and break.


Let me know if i need to change something.
 

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the left caliper looks a lil loose...the right caliper IMO, u should redo and "loop" the wire over the top bolt so the safetied part starts on the right side of the bolt

 

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Avplayer said:
the left caliper looks a lil loose...the right caliper IMO, u should redo and "loop" the wire over the top bolt so the safetied part starts on the right side of the bolt
good points jared...
 
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