ur just now getting a power commandermpdgsxr1000 said:have on the way:
+3mm KWS milled JE pistons
Carillo H-beam rods
billet clutch basket
Yoyodyne slipper clutch
KWS modified head gasket +3mm
all seals and gaskets to do the rebuild
yes, they cut valve in three different steps, stock is 3 angle cuts, street/race is 5 angles, and full race is 7 anglesOld Skool_R said:7 angle? damn man haha
Dang, that sounds like a sick set-up Mike,,,mpdgsxr1000 said:yes, they cut valve in three different steps, stock is 3 angle cuts, street/race is 5 angles, and full race is 7 angles
the more you do the better flow around the valve you get while still retaining valve sealing to the head
with just the headwork and cams I have 175hp at the wheel, the big bore im hoping to get into the 190+hp rangeKelevra said:Dang, that sounds like a sick set-up Mike,,,
What are you looking at RWHP wise?
how reliable will it be with all the internal work? how often you gonna have to rip back into it?mpdgsxr1000 said:with just the headwork and cams I have 175hp at the wheel, the big bore im hoping to get into the 190+hp range
but of course each dyno is different and its just a tuning tool so im not too concerned with HP numbers just as long as it runs right and real strong
correct, now if I went with the 1143cc stroker kit I'd have to tear it down every winter, the 1070cc kit runs just like a stock motor just biggergixerhp said:It should be 100% streetable with regular maintinence!
Mike is it apart yet!
yeah I definately cant wait, you should still send us your 1k motor so we can work some magic with it now that you got all the pretty parts done to itmotomummy said:Should be a monster mpd. I loved it when I did a big bore on my r1. The sound is definitely noticeable also...it's insane. the torque is what's the most noticeable though. My r1 is a machine in 1-3rd gear. You should do a before/after sound clip