Suzuki Motorcycles Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What you will need:

1) A first gen GSXR.
2) A USD front end from a 91-95 GSXR 750
3) Triple clamps and bars from a 91-92 GSXR 750
4) Wheels, brakes, spacers, rotors, and speedo drive from a 91-95 GSXR 750.
5) New brake lines for 2nd gen 750.

Okay, basically this whole thing is a bolt on affair. The only real mod that needs to be made is to the ignition lugs on the bottom of the top clamp. These need to be plugged, cut down, drilled and retapped for the 1st gen ignition switch.

Step 1: Fit the bottom clamp.

Just like it says, mount the bottom clamp in the neck. Do not do this with the forks in the clamp as you may bend the stem. I've seen this happen before so consider yourself warned. Make sure your bearings are greased so that you don't have to remove it and do it again later. The nuts should be tight enough to keep it from moving around while you fit the top clamp in the next step, but not torqued down - you don't do that until you have the front end together.

Step 2: Fix the top clamp.

For this you should do the plugging first and then the cutting. To plug I use a length of threaded aluminum rod. You won't find it threaded so you'll have to use a die to thread plain aluminum rod. I thread it in the hole with a coat of JB Weld so that it stays in place while I cut it. You will need to cut these down to about 5/8" and then use a hand file to get it flat.

While the rod is drying you can then move to the lockset hole. For this I use a die grinder and a rotary file. Basically you go round and round inside the hole with the rotary file until you have enough room for the 1st gen switch which, is larger than the second gen switch (thankfully, not by much). Again, when I am close I then use a hand file to finish it off. This will require you to fit, file, fit, file, until you get it right. Don't hog it all out at one time or it will look like shit.

When the JD Weld is dry you can cut the ignition lugs down. Again, this is a cut/fit type of thing. Don't rush it. You can always make it shorts, but making it longer sucks. You can always use spacers if you screw it up, but remember, there is only so much clamp under that hole and you don't want to drill through to the other side when the time comes to drill and tap the new holes. When you are satisfied with the fit, you may center punch the holes using the ignition switch as a guide (the holes will not be in the same location they were inn before), oil the bit, and carefully drill the holes. Do this one at a time and check as you go. The use of a drill press is encouraged. The below photo shows the opened up ignition hole and how the holes for the 1st gen switch and 2nd gen switch are in different positions.

This photo is a profile shot of the clamp after I PC'd it. It gives you an idea of how short the modified ignition switch lugs are.

Step 3: Fit the forks in the clamp.

No rocket science here. Make sure your bars are on there if you have stock non-split bars. You will also notice that your first gen brake lines are not ideal for this. Second gen brake lines are the way to go.

Step 4: Bolt up the wheel, brakes, and speedo cable.

If you don't know how to do this, you probably shouldn't be reading this so I'm not going to elaborate.

The finished product... Take your time, it's worth it!!!

Here's another one I've been working. This one is a 7/11.

Some notes:

1) You can use 1100 forks for this, but they are longer.
2) If you are doing a 7/11, you will need to replace the springs unless you are using the 1100 forks too.
3) The 750 forks are better so I would try to find a set of those.
4) A 95 750 clamp will work if you already have broken tabs on your 1st gen frame. You will need to cut and file off the remainder of the tabs, and then clearance the frame a little on the bottom side to make room for the bottom clamps new steering stops. Then you'll just need to drill/tap some holes in the bottom of the frame neck and thread in some allen head bolts for the frame stops.
5) The 94/95 750 clamps are easier to find and cheaper than the 91/92 clamps. But if you chop off your frame stops to save a buck or two, you are a tool and should be punished for your cheapness.
6) 1100 clamps only work with 1100 forks and 750 clamps only work with 750 forks.

So that's it for the USD conversion. I think I got everything but if I left something out, please post a question or post a comment. I hope this helps you all out on your projects.

I do have one request in that I ask that if you use this and/or post it elsewhere that you at least give me credit for the write up as the author and to GFN for hosting it. It's the right thing to do.
1 - 2 of 2 Posts